When the food is rich, pick a wine that’s not too rich itself

Credit: Dreamstime/TNS

Credit: Dreamstime/TNS

When a dish has plenty of richness of its own, such as this pasta with olives and Gorgonzola, take care to pick a wine without too much richness — such as this novel white from Italy, a rare red from Greece and a classic red from Italy. All of them will stand up to the dish without pushing the flavors over the top.

———

MAKE THIS 

SPAGHETTI WITH OLIVADA AND GORGONZOLA 

Cook 1 pound spaghetti in a large pot of well-salted boiling water until al dente; drain. Return pasta to pot. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; toss. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese; toss. Stir in 1/4 cup olivada (aka tapenade, aka olive paste); top with 1/2 cup Gorgonzola cheese crumbles. Makes: 6 servings

DRINK THIS 

Pairings by sommelier Alan Beasey of The Purple Pig, as told to Michael Austin:

2013 Velenosi Villa Angela Pecorino, Marche, Italy: Made of 100 percent pecorino (yes, it's a grape and a cheese), this white wine has aromas of yellow flowers, stone fruit and subtle herbs, plus a crisp brininess that will accentuate the salty, savory olivada and cheeses. Flavors of ripe golden apple and apricots will also contribute balance.

2014 Douloufakis Dafnios, Crete, Greece: This powerful yet elegant red wine offers notes of herbs and olives, plus ripe red fruit. The savory aromas will boost the savory elements of the olives and cheese in the dish, and the combination of fruit and herbs will enhance the dish's richness. The wine's lovely acidity will tie everything together.

2014 Altesino Rosso di Altesino, Tuscany, Italy: This quintessential Tuscan blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon has silky tannins and a rich texture, plus ripe, plummy fruit tempered with subtle earthiness and tangy acidity. It will showcase the flavors of savory olives and rich cheese in the dish, without being too heavy.

About the Author