The waves are great all year long, with consistent south swells in summer. At the heart of Waikiki, right off Kalakaua Avenue, is a large statue of Duke Kahanamoku, the famed Olympic swimmer and father of modern surfing. Near the statue of “The Big Kahuna” is a magnificent banyan tree, and from my hotel room at the Aston Waikiki Beachside Hotel, I watched the tree come alive at dusk and dawn with hundreds of chirping birds.
I chose the boutique hotel on the recommendation of friends living in Hawaii. Not plush, the rooms are comfortable, clean and quiet. A few months ago I stayed there for $121.94 per night, tax and all. If you have trouble time-shifting and find yourself wide awake long before dawn, there’s a McDonald’s with strong coffee less than a block away.
This location is convenient for being on foot — a few minutes from the door of the hotel and my tootsies were in the ocean. For land adventures, it’s an 8-minute walk southeast on Kalakaua Avenue to the Honolulu Zoo. Or go northwest, where shops and hotels abound.
Stop at the Moana Surfrider. This white Hawaiian Gothic-style hotel is Waikiki’s oldest, having opened in 1901. Past the Moana Surfrider is the Outrigger Waikiki Resort. For a relaxing breakfast, consider its Hula Grill for pineapple and coconut buttermilk pancakes or for dinner try the Makaweli steak, 100 percent grass fed on the island of Kauai, or the fire-grilled ahi. There’s also Duke’s Waikiki that offers a “barefoot bar” menu for casual dining options.
From Outrigger, keep going on Kalakaua Avenue and you’ll see a pink hotel. The Royal Hawaiian, another classic luxury hotel, opened in 1927.
Stay on Kalakua then take a left on Lewers Street. You’ll reach the Haleulani Hotel. Dine at its open-air restaurant, House Without a Key, made famous in a 1925 Charlie Chan novel. The service is incredible. When I asked for a table and nothing was available, the staff came out carrying a table and set it up for me!
After a long flight from the mainland — Hawaii's islands are the remotest in the entire world — you may be ready for one of Waikiki's most famous mai tais. The recipe's on the hotel's website, www.halekulani.com:
HALEKULANI MAI TAI
1/3 ounce Orgeat Syrup
1/3 ounce Orange Curacao
1/3 ounce rock candy syrup
3/4 ounce Bacardi Gold Rum
½ ounce Bacardi 151 Rum
1 ¼ ounce fresh lime Juice
¾ ounce Bacardi Select Rum (float)
Build over crushed ice and float with 3/4 ounce of Bacardi Select Rum. Garnish with lime wheel, sugar cane stick, mint leaf and Vanda orchid.
Now, relax. You’re on Hawaiian time.
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